Live Thread Studio evolves with the Slow Cloth Movement from weaving only to custom design sewing using hand woven cloth and hand sewing embellishment.
What
Happens to Design and Sew Custom Art to Wear
The
design process involves developing the initial concept, then proceeds
to the design of the underlying sewing pattern that will be the
support for the hand sewn raw edge applique. Once the sewing pattern
is designed it is custom fitted with a “toile” or test piece.
After the fitting is completed this toile is taken apart in order use
as the final pattern. Since each person is her own shape this
process is unique to her.
The
Tunic Vest uses a handwoven fabric chosen from the collection of Live
Thread Studio or a special fabric supplied by the client. The back
fabric and binding fabric are determined after to co-ordinate with
the front piece for color, weight and material compatibility. Fabric
choices come from many sources, mostly from online to have the best
choices but hunting down the right choice can be time consuming.
After the pattern toile has been fitted, it is taken apart and then
used to cut and sew the final fabrics. The vest might be finished
with a lining depending on the choice of the client. Without a
lining all seams are completed with a Hong Kong finish. The arm
bindings are hand sewn.
The
Raw Applique Vests start in the same way with pattern fitting and
construction of the toile, then proceeds to the design process, which
I nvolves working out the color palette and fabric choices, perhaps
the client has a collection of fabrics to be included or she wants to
use a handwoven fabric from the collection of the studio to use as
the major theme with other fabrics supporting the design. Every piece
is an original, distinct and separate design that takes many hours in
determining and ordering the fabrics to use, placement and design of
the fabric applique.
Before
the applique sewing begins the vest base is sewn using the custom
pattern and confirmed to properly fit the client.
The
fabric applique pieces are hand sewn one piece at a time using
decorative threads. The hand sewing takes place over many days in 2
hour sessions since the hand work thru layers and with the thicker
decorative threads is hard on the hands.
On
some pieces additional hand stitching embellishments is added to
bring more design possibilities.
After
the main hand sewing is finished, the lining is cut from the custom
pattern and sewn in. The binding is then sewn on and finished by
hand.